A BOOK ‘HAWKER COLOURS’ BRINGS READERS TO EXPLORE THE STREET FOOD IN SINGAPORE WHICH REFLECTS THE DIVERSITY AND THE FOOD HERITAGE OF PEOPLE AND BECOMES A PART OF THE NATION CULTURE’S IDENTITY
TEXT: PATTIYA HARPUTPONG
PHOTO: KETSIREE WONGWAN
(For Thai, press here)
Hawker Colours: Melamine Tableware in Singapore
In Plain Words, 2023
Hans Tan Studio and In Plain Words
Designed by Currency
210 x 170 x 12 mm
175 pages
Soft cover (Five colour options)
ISBN 978-981-18-8248-7
While Thailand has mobile food vendors selling street food, Singapore has its own version of low-priced street food. The difference lies in the fact that in Singapore, these vendors are organized in shopping malls and food courts throughout the city, known as Hawkers.
Hawkers are part of Singapore’s food culture. They reflect the diversity and the food heritage of people from different ethnicities. This is the context of the new book by ‘In Plain Words’ that explores the artistic aspect within Singapore’s Hawkers culture.
‘Hawker Colours’ was written by Sheere Ng and Justin Zhuang, founders of In Plain Words. Sheere Ng is a writer and researcher who has written several books about Singaporean food culture. This book presents the vibrant culture of Singaporean street food. The book is available in many cover colors, inspired by the colorful melamine tableware used in this type of food shop.
The tableware’s colors also communicate stories we may not have known before. For example, the owner of a Mee Soto shop, the third-generation owner of this family-run business, shared in the book that the shop exclusively uses yellow tableware. This choice stems from the belief of his parents’ generation that colorful tableware enhances the appearance of the food, making it more appetizing. Similarly, a porridge shop owner explained that each color is used for different dishes. The cook can identify the dish ordered by the customer based on the color of the bowl arranged by the one who receives the order. It’s the color ‘code system’ they have been using since the opening of business some decades back.
The word ‘Colours’ in the book’s title also signifies the liveliness of these Hawkers, both in tangible and intangible ways. Stories are conveyed through photography that captures the food, atmosphere, graphics, and architecture. This extends to anecdotes and interviews that illustrate the lives of the food merchants and cooks, narrating tales of dedication, discipline, and skills that drive these food vendor owners forward, creating menus while carrying the legacy of Singaporean food culture in their business.
In the rapidly changing landscape of gastronomic culture, ‘Hawkers Colours’ underlines the significance of Singaporean street food culture, especially in an era when people increasingly turn to modern conveniences, including trendy or fusion foods. This intriguing book serves as a medium that highlights the value of this food culture, which has long been the identity of Singapore for generations.
