THE FIRST EUROPEAN UNDERWATER RESTAURANT PROVIDES US A NEW EXPERIENCE OF EATING NORWEGIAN LOCAL FOOD WITH THE SENSATIONAL VISTA OF THE UNDERWATER WORLD
TEXT: SUTEE NAKARAKORNKUL
PHOTO: IVAR KVAAL EXCEPT AS NOTED
(For Thai, press here)
Since Thailand is the kind of country where hillside and seaside areas are restricted, preventing the general public’s access and use for legal reasons, or the fact that the country has plenty of lands to use due to its vast terrain of planes, finding out about the news of an underwater restaurant on the coastline of Lindesnes, the southernmost area of Norway that has Snøhetta as the project’s architect, it is both intriguing and exciting since such type of space and program as well as the dining experience is almost beyond the imagination for us Thai people.
Photo: Inger Marie Grini / Bo Bedre Norge
‘Under’ is the name of the restaurant and the origin of that name is referencing the physical appearance of the restaurant itself. Resembling a massive submarine swept ashore with half of it left sunken underwater, the architecture of Under is basically a 34-meter-wide monolithic concrete structure with exterior walls that are slightly curved and half-a-meter thick to endure the crashing waves and underwater pressure.
Under’s first strike is the experience of the way the space is accessed. The underwater area houses the entire functional space of the restaurant with the seating capacity that can accommodate up to 35-40 patrons. The restaurant’s visitors need to walk from the coast of submerged rocks, cross a concrete bridge, and walk down the stairs that lead down 5-meter deep. Passing the cloakroom and a bar on the mezzanine, the first stop on the floor of the restaurant marks the arrival at the seabed. The only big difference is that in this spectacularly designed space, one is able to breathe, enjoy the taste of the food as well as the surreal ambience all at the same time.
Lindesnes is a coastal town known for its unpredictable weather; the kind of unpredictability where a perfectly sunny day can turn into stormy winds and rain within the span of less than a day. The idea the architect had for the design of the interior space of the restaurant is a warm and safe atmosphere. Oakwood is used as the main material for the walls, tables and chairs (a collaboration with local artisans) for the sense of comfort it offers. The panoramic glass wall at the size of 11 x 3.4 meters fully takes in the underwater world, toning down the feeling of being in an enclosed space. The underwater experience is accentuated with the ceiling and walls, which are covered with fabric whose pattern and colors simulate the lights from the sailing boats piercing into the water at night.
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- Photo: Inger Marie Grini / Bo Bedre Norge
It is actually not that surprising to know that the highlight of Under isn’t actually about serving some exotic, super luxurious menu. The ingredients used in the dishes are freshly caught seafood, seaweed, and seasonal berries. What Under emphasizes and offers its clients is the unprecedented experience of underwater dining. “Fresh ingredients and pure, naked flavors are of utmost importance to us. At the same time, we want to provide a unique dining experience that ushers our guests beyond their comfort zone,” explained Nicolai Ellitsgaard, the Head Chef of Under.
Apart from its main purpose as an underwater restaurant, Under also functions as a center for coastal research that allows the research team to study marine biology as well as observe local marine animals through the cameras and equipment installed on the exterior walls of the restaurant (the footage is broadcasted live on the restaurant’s Facebook page). The objective is to analyze the number of the populations, behaviors, and diversity of the creatures living around the area. The concrete walls of the restaurant are left exposed with an intention for the rugged surface to attract algae and molluscs to cling on, creating an artificial mussel reef over time.
Not only is Snøhetta responsible for the design of the architecture, landscape architecture and interior decoration, but they also hold the corporate identity of the restaurant. It wouldn’t be an overstatement to say that Under is an intriguing case study of restaurant design in the 21st Century, particularly in the way that the experience that Snøhetta has created for this underwater restaurant is closely intertwined with the ‘food’ it serves. It’s the kind of connection that is so strong that we are certain that nobody is going to want to order a take away from Under to eat elsewhere (the restaurant doesn’t offer such services anyway).
Photo: André Martinsen
Those who would like to have a taste of the mesmerizing underwater dining experience are going to have to wait a while considering the reservations are booked for months-long now. It remains to be seen what will happen to Under and its concept when Europe welcomes a continuing emergence of underwater restaurants.